Frequently Asked Questions

at Dimmock Hill



 - Index -


Full Equipment Price List        |         Dimmock Hill Home Page


1. Question:  Do you send out catalogs? 



We have a website (www.dimmockhill.com) which tells you, in detail, how to access the price list. We do not mail out printed price list or catalog.


2. Question: Is Dimmock Hill Golf a FACTORY authorized golf equipment dealer? 



We are FACTORY authorized dealers for ALL the popular major professional  equipment suppliers including: Callaway, Ping, Mizuno, Adams, Titleist, Adidas, Footjoy, Odyssey, TaylorMade, Wilson, Exotic-Tour Edge,  Powerbilt,  Bridgestone, Cobra,  Topflite, Cleveland-Srixon, True Temper, Scotty Cameron, Castle Bay, Volvik, Pinnacle  Balls, Bag Boy, Clic Gear, Sun Mountain, Ray Cook, Yonex, etc.


3. Question:  Does Dimmock Hill Golf also sell closeout or clearance golf clubs?



Yes. We try to post these items as soon as we know they are available. If you know of certain current items that have been closed out, check our website, we probably have it on sale too (at a lower price, with no sales tax to pay). 1-800-727-5511


4. Question:  We are residents of a country in Europe. Can we buy golf clubs from Dimmock Hill

                   Golf and have them shipped to us?



Yes, we accept VISA, DISCOVER  and MASTERCARD orders from anywhere, as long as we can verify the card holder's identity. That requires a “billing address” from you. E-mail us at john@dimmockhill.com for help with your shipment.


5. Question:  Do you sell components for the do-it-yourselfers who want to make their own clubs?



Sorry, No. We do not sell clones, shafts, components, etc. We sell Professional golf equipment (assembled golf clubs) manufactured by companies such as Ping, Callaway, Titleist, Mizuno, Taylor Made, etc.



6. Question:   What is the difference between a "pro" set of clubs and a "chain store" set of clubs?



"Chain” Stores usually sell their store “brands”.  These “store models” are designed for the golfer who just needs something basic to play with. The clubs are lower priced simply because the quality and technology are not there. Store clubs are basically components assembled by manufacturers and then glued together (if you can make them in your garage, they are glued together), and to keep the prices low, there is little in the way of cost of materials, labor or design or technology to qualify them as professional clubs.  They are usually one size fits all (i.e., store clubs are usually same length, regular flex, and no attention is really paid to quality control and consistency. They usually cannot be customized for you (such as different lies, custom shafts, custom lengths, etc.), and are not made for serious golfers. One big feature that doesn’t get noticed in the advertising however is this: when you play with professional clubs (not store clubs), you can feel the difference and see the difference in your performance! Even a mis-hit with a Callaway driver or a Ping or a Titleist iron, etc., feels good and looks good. And feel is everything! 


In a nutshell, Professional golf clubs are high quality tools, made for those who love the game and want to get better. Remember one thing about Professional clubs….these PGA professionals (Men and women) use these same clubs to play on the Tour; they cannot be compared to store clubs.



7. Question:  I live in Texas. Do I have to pay sales tax?



No. We are not authorized to collect taxes in TEXAS or any other state except our own state (New York). Therefore, your purchase is shipped tax-free to you.


8. Question:  Does "more expensive" mean "better" when it comes to golf clubs?



Generally, the answer is yes, when you play with professional golf clubs, there is a higher cost built into the manufacture of these clubs. Manufacturer’s supervise and design their clubs and they put in the highest quality raw materials, the finest engineering, they are tested and improved and they golf professionals play with these same clubs. And with each improvement you get a greater advantage than you had with last year’s clubs.  The old adage, “you get what you pay for” does apply to professional golf equipment. 


9. Question:  I called a competitor before calling you and found their price for a metal driver to be

                     $50 less than you were quoting for the “same club”!  In light of your statement that you

                     have the lowest prices, how do you account for the higher price?



Almost every time this happens, there is a mis-communication in obtaining the correct price. The names for golf clubs, for example, can be very misleading and misunderstood.  For example: In 2015, Callaway made a pro driver called the XR. In 2016, they improved that driver and called the advanced version, the Callaway XR-16. When you called your local sporting goods store to get a price on the XR 16, you may have been told a price on the XR and that price was much lower than the current XR16.  It’s very easy to confuse the names of clubs today. Ping alone has the G5 irons, the G-10, the G15, G-20, G-25 and G-30. Titleist has the AP1 and AP2, and the AP1-714 and the AP1-716. Confusion reigns when these labels are mixed up and you are looking for a quote!


We don't believe that anyone is deliberately trying to mislead you, but asking different stores for quotations   on the phone or reading the “Hot List” in magazines can be confusing. Another misleading comment: “NEW golf clubs” are not necessarily CURRENT models. And “NEW Clubs” doesn’t necessarily mean “UNUSED”, and LASTLY, with the big influx of counterfeit clubs into the market, “CALLAWAY clubs” do not necessarily mean manufactured by CALLAWAY!  


We can guarantee this:  whatever the price, we will beat the price you were told.



10. Question:  What shaft is more popular, steel or graphite?



In irons, the makeup is probably 60% steel and 40% graphite. In metalwoods and hybrids, 100% of the orders are for graphite shafts.


11. Question:  Why is graphite the preferred shaft in the metalwoods?



Graphite is about 2/3 the weight of steel. In theory, a graphite shafted club (because it is lighter) is able to generate more club head speed than a steel shafted model in the hands of a robot, for example. More club head speed means more distance.


Regarding accuracy and performance: Graphite "recovers" quicker than steel which means the vibration of the graphite shaft at the moment of impact is almost zero. Graphite shafts are so technologically advanced today, graphite shafts can be “layered” in the manufacturing process so the exact “bend” point for each club is predictable.  In the hands of a robot, a graphite shaft performs to a higher level of expectation that does a steel shaft.


12. Question:  Why do most of the pros still use steel shafted irons instead of graphite if graphite

                     shafts are more advanced?



Most of the PGA Tour pros do not need distance; they want accuracy and less twisting of the shaft.  Many of the senior golf pros and Ladies Touring pros DO use graphite shafted clubs in their irons. The PGA pros (men and women) all use graphite shafted drivers. Steel shafts for irons have one major advantage for golf professionals: because steel shafts are heavier than graphite shafts, the heavier shafts help the golf pro resist the errors that come from their 100-135 mph swings. A heavier shaft will help control a tendency to overswing too (and thereby minimize the errors that result in over swinging).  Average players do not have the super fast swing speeds of the touring golf pro, so the heavier steel shafts may actually be a handicap for average players.


13: Question:  What about being fitted? Should I get a fitting before I buy golf clubs?



There is a common misconception about the meaning of “fitting”. Fitting, in common parlance, is the same as “sizing” which amounts to fitting the clubs to your ability, your height, stance, swing, distance off the tee, etc. That is what golf pros have done for 100 years and we called that process, “fitting”. Any golf pro or golf shop have professional staff people who can “fit” you to the clubs in 5 minutes.


When you try on a pair of shoes or a golf glove you are seeking the proper size. Everyone needs to be “sized” when you buy golf clubs. Today, fitting  has become a sophisticated way of adding engineering and mathematical computations to SIZING. The new definition of fitting includes everything you ever wanted to know about virtual loft, optimum trajectory, club path at impact, side spin rate, spin at impact, initial ball velocity off the clubface, downswing clubhead speed, your dispersion rate, what the ball trajectory is at 80 mph, 90 mph, 100 mph, the angle of the trajectory, optimum distance obtained at different clubhead speeds, how far you sliced (or hooked) your ball off the centerline, etc.


Basically, using highly sophisticated simulators or a launch monitor provides engineering statistics to your golf pro. It is very impressive. It is our experience is that these stats are understood by less than 5% of the golfers who get “fitted (or “sized”). Think of this as similar to the lab techie reading to you, the results of your last blood test. That too, is impressive,…..if you only understood all of what she says. 


Here is what you need to know:

1. The proper length of your clubs (70% need standard length)

2. The proper lie angle (that’s the angle the shaft makes to the clubhead, 70% need standard lie)

3. The fit of your grips (90% are fine with standard grips)

4. The flex of your clubs (95% use stiff or regular…).  See item 16 below.

5. The composition of the shaft (graphite or steel).  See item 11 above.


Your resident golf pro can fit you in less than 5 minutes. If he has seen you swing and or watched you hit some balls, play the game, he can fit you in 2 minutes!  Note: Not all shops do this without charge, check them first to see if fitting is free (it is usually free). If you don’t have a golf pro at your course, go to http://www.ping.com/fitting/webfit.aspx. This internet address is PING’S fitting page where PING GOLF, in simple language, helps you to a proper club fit. It's worth downloading this site to get your proper requirements.


If you are local and you would like to be fitted or sized for golf clubs, please call us and we will fit you. We have attended PING, TAYLOR-MADE, CALLAWAY, COBRA and MIZUNO’s fitting schools and we are certified by each manufacturer to fit you properly. Call us, we can help you. We have some demo irons and we can fit you and allow you to hit those clubs. There is NO CHARGE for this service. CALL 1-800-727-5511.


14. Question:  Does Dimmock Hill Golf sell golf bags?



Yes. We sell popular golf bags from the biggest manufacturers when you can tell us the manufacturer's exact (catalog) model number and you can generally describe the bag. Most of the time, we can’t place orders for every bag, because the customer usually wants, for example, a "PING carry bag", or a Titleist Cart bag……  (Which one?) They make many cart bags and carry bags). If you wish to purchase a bag, give us the mfr’s model name and the model number and we’ll get it for you.


15. Question:  What is the difference between "Blades" or "Tour" models, versus

                    “Game improvement” clubs?



Blades and Tour clubs are made for the better players and usually feature: less offset heads, the heads are more compact, the top line of the head is thinner, there is more weight placed where the clubface hits the ball, the shaft is stiffer, and the shaft is made to flex at a higher point on the shaft (about 4-8 inches below the grip). The shafts are usually heavier than the shafts on average player's clubs, and there is lower torque value built into the shafts, plus the length of each iron in the set changes as the progression of the clubs moves from the longer 2 iron to the shorter LOB wedge. etc. These are Tour models.


Clubs for the average player feature more offset in the heads (to hit the ball higher), the heads are larger (to give the player more confidence), the top line of the club head is thicker (same reason), there is more weight distributed around the perimeter of the head (which increases the sweet spot), there is more heel-to-toe weight on the bottom of the club (to provide more forgiveness on impact), the clubs feature lighter shafts, more flexible shafts and the shaft flexes nearer to the bottom of the shaft, etc. Good players as well as average players play with clubs of this design. Ninety percent of all golf clubs are made to fit the average player.


Regarding metallurgy: We have found little difference in performance between forged iron heads and stainless “cast” iron heads for most golfers. Studies were conducted with PGA pros in the mid 1980’s and they found little difference between cast steel and forged steel regarding performance. It is true that the molecules in forgings are denser than the molecules in cast clubs but this does not seem to affect performance. However there are still ongoing studies regarding “feel” of forged irons vs. cast stainless.


We can say the same positive comments about the golf ball.  We are witnessing unbelievable progress in the engineering of the ball and the addition of new materials used in their manufacture. That’s the next new great development in golf, the golf ball.


16. Question:  How do I know if I need regular shaft flex or stiff flex in my clubs?



If you can hit the ball in the air with any metalwood  (even one time) greater than 240 yards during an 18 hole round (flat terrain, no wind, sea level, a little roll), you need stiff shafts in your metalwoods, because you have the athletic ability (which generates club head speed to do it). You should also pick a stiff shaft for the irons too. If your club head speed in your irons is relatively slow, or deliberately slow, you should probably choose a regular flex (vs. a stiff flex).


A general rule to follow: to get more distance, choose regular flex. To get more control, choose stiff flex. These are only general guidelines.


17. Question:  What about a Senior flex? I am 60 and while I have slowed down a bit, I still have my

                    athletic ability and I still play the game well. I just don’t play as much and I’ve lost a

                    few yards. Should I switch to senior shafts?



Senior shafts will give you a little more distance but with that distance comes scattered (that is, unpredictable) shots. Senior shafts are more flexible than regular flex clubs and a lot more flexible than stiff shafted clubs. First, try switching to graphite shafted clubs (graphite will give you more distance without the scattered-shot effect). Second, try hybrids in your long irons, they will give you more dependable shots than with your usual 3, 4, or 5 irons, and third, go to a higher degree of loft in your driver. A 10.5 degree lofted driver or 12 degree driver, even 13.5 degrees gives you a higher trajectory and more distance.


 We think senior shafts are more helpful for people who have a slower club head speed. Senior shafts help to give you that “flailing” action that provides more distance. In theory, a very flexible shaft (like the senior shaft) will give you optimum distance; a stiff shaft gives you less distance, but usually, more control. The best choice?: if you still have your athletic ability but have lost some of your clubhead speed, go with the R (regular) shaft and raise the driver trajectory to 10.5 degrees (instead of 9). Getting the ball up in the air is a great help to getting more distance.


18. Question:  Can I order golf clubs with custom features, like changes in lie, length, grip size, etc.?



Yes, Custom clubs are made by most of the Pro equipment manufacturers. It usually takes the factory 1 week or less. Some mfrs take only 1 or 2 days to custom-make your order.


19. Question:  Dimmock Hill is well known for accepting "trade-in" golf clubs towards current

                    model golf clubs. Are these trade-ins available for sale?



Yes. We accept previously owned, top-of-the-line professional golf clubs in trade towards any purchase you may make... Our pre owned golf clubs sell fast (because the prices are low). We try to post our inventory on our website but if you have an immediate interest, call or email us. With professional golf clubs costing over $1,000 today, it would be wise to trade your used clubs in for a set of the current Ping, Titleist, Taylor-Made, Mizuno, Callaway, etc. Along that same thought, you may want to consider buying a 2-4 year old pre-owned professional irons, or metalwoods, which originally sold new for $800-$1000 for half that price. If you live outside of the United States, pre-owned top-of-the-line professional golf clubs make great bargains for our friends outside of the United States. (Click here for more trade-in information)


20. Question:  I lost a club in my set, a 7 iron. Can I buy a new one?



Maybe. If the club is from a set less than 2 years old, the answer is, most likely, yes. The older the lost club, the less likely it can be replaced. The rule is, if you lose a club, get it replaced immediately. A second rule: get a set of shaft labels to stick on your clubs. If you lose a club that has a label on it, chances are excellent a golfer or the golf course you played will return it to you. We print and sell labels that are specifically designed for golf clubs. They cost $7.95 for one a set, of 14 labels, and $12.95 for 2 sets.


Click here for a Golf Shaft Label Order Form



21. Question:  “Are the newer clubs today really better than my older set?



Definitely YES.  The great technological advances testing, in shaft design, shaft composition, high tech welding, head designs, weight distribution, space age metallurgy, precision casting, etc., have become commonplace in just the last few years and they keep changing, getting better every year (sometimes better every 6 months)! 


If you now play with an older set of clubs, more than 3 years old, the new models are better, simple as that.


22. Question:  What are hybrid clubs? Do I need to have them?



We all know how hard it is to hit long irons accurately (if we hit them at all). To paraphrase Lee Trevino, “even God can’t hit a 3 iron”, so the latest development in new golf clubs has been the hybrid clubs. Hybrids are long irons made like your metalwoods. They look like a smaller headed fairway wood but, because they replace your long IRONS, they are shorter than fairway woods (shorter clubs are always easier to hit). Hybrid irons are easy to hit too. The look, feel and control you get with a hybrid means your long iron shots today are “scoring” clubs instead of “approach” clubs. Hybrids also impart tremendous confidence that you are going to hit that club perfectly.


Some companies make hybrids to replace the traditional 2, 3 or 4 irons. Some companies make hybrids to replace even the 5 and 6 irons.   


23. Question:  Does Dimmock Hill buy pre-owned golf clubs (as well as take clubs in trade?)



We have been trading and purchasing clubs for over 40 years. We also will be happy to purchase your name brand PROFESSIONAL golf clubs from you.


The only individual “iron” clubs we accept are putters and wedges. We do accept individual Professional drivers.  We cannot use broken clubs or clubs that need repair, or refinishing.


The procedure to trade them: Just ship your clubs to us (call us at 800-727-5511 for our address). We will give you a “ball park” price for your trade-in.  Call us and we will help you with this.


24. Question:   Should your sand iron be replaced when you buy a new set of irons, or should you keep

                     the old one?



A NEW sand wedge’s great advantage is that it has sharp grooves that impart a lot of spin on the ball (whether you hit your wedge to chip with, use from the fairway, or use only in the trap).  BUT, those grooves do wear and that wedge doesn’t work like it did only a few years ago.  Check your wedge, if the grooves are worn, time to get a new one.


25. Question:   What’s the story on “counterfeit” clubs?



Many of the credit card companies, golf club manufacturers and TV documentaries advise that 40% of the goods presently sold online are counterfeit. That includes women’s handbags, sports memorabilia or team apparel, such as    NY Yankee jackets, fine art, fine wines, professional GOLF CLUBS, professional golf balls, expensive name brand   jewelry, perfumes, anything  with an expensive logo, such as watches, diamonds, clothing, etc).      


All of the NEW professional golf clubs we sell are manufactured by American manufacturers such as Ping, Callaway, Titleist,….there is no chance they will be counterfeits if you buy them from us (why?...because we are the manufacturer’s dealer and we buy all of our new clubs directly from the American manufacturer).  


Incidentally, it really takes an expert to tell if a set of golf clubs is counterfeit just by looking at the clubs, but you can tell by the club’s performance.  Most counterfeits are made with inferior metals (titanium alloy for example is not titanium). We saw a set of top name brand clubs that were perfect copies of the real thing but the iron heads were made with “titanium composite”,  a very cheap material that will never perform like the titanium heads made by the big club manufacturers like Titleist or Ping, etc. We have seen counterfeit grips printed with the mfr’s logo but we have also seen them split down the middle within 6 months. Steel shafts may say True Temper but they are not made by True Temper, and don’t even compare.  Be aware of counterfeit clubs. They are out there.  


26. Question:   What’s the story on “single length” irons (made by top golf company manufacturers)?


We have seen a few reviews and our immediate reaction is that the mfr’s should make these uni-length clubs for beginners, seniors who have trouble getting a clubhead speed that exceeds 65 mph, and for most women. Why? Because the easiest clubs to hit are the shorter ones and if we want to have a happy day on the course, the uni- length clubs are perfect for that. The stock length in “one-length” clubs is about a 6 or 7 iron length (for many golfers that’s also their favorite club). Hitting a 6 or 7 iron requires less shoulder turn, less concern with weight shift, less opportunities for errors (like hitting from the top, overswinging),  etc.  You could also gain a lot of confidence using one length clubs (everybody can hit a 7 iron, right? not so of a 4 or 5 iron).  You also get a higher trajectory with the shorter length long irons, so why not consider a 4 iron with a 7 iron length, or a 5 iron with a 7 iron length; you may lose a little distance but control, using all the clubs should improve.


   In our own testing, we lost about 10 yards with shorter 5 iron and about 20 yards with a shorter 4 iron. BUT, our accuracy was generally better in the whole set. Not a bad compromise. We hit them slightly shorter but right on target. For many golfers, shorter 4, 5 and 6 irons may lower your handicap and make the game a lot more fun. And they are USGA approved too. You can get them custom made (the proper lie, with fatter or thinner grips, stiff or regular flex, steel or graphite, etc. It’s an exciting new idea. Call us for the names of mfrs that sell the one-length clubs; right now it’s Tour Edge and Cobra (men’s or women’s).  Our number: 800-727-5511. 


If you have any technical questions, we'll try to answer them.

Send questions to: john@dimmockhill.com  or Joe@dimmockhill.com.